Can I really buy in installments from any country?

Yes. We finance buyers in more than 190 countries. You need a valid ID, proof of income or business activity, and a deposit from 10% of the vehicle price.

Are the small and Chinese cars new or used?

Both. Kei cars and city hatchbacks are typically 2-6 year old low-mileage units, while most Chinese EV models in stock are brand new or under 12 months old.

Can I choose the colour of my car?

Every listing shows the exact colours available for that model. If your preferred colour is out of stock we will source it within 10-20 days at the same price.

What is included in the price?

Prices are indicative FOB. Freight, insurance and inland delivery are quoted per destination port. Local duty and registration are paid by the buyer.

How long does shipping take?

Typically 14 days to the Gulf, 25-35 days to East and West Africa, 30-45 days to South America and the Caribbean.

JDM Motors — Cars for Worldwide Export

Destination port	Region	Transit	RoRo from	Steering
Jebel Ali	UAE	12–16 days	$690	LHD / RHD
Mombasa	Kenya	25–32 days	$880	RHD
Dar es Salaam	Tanzania	28–35 days	$910	RHD
Durban	South Africa	26–34 days	$950	RHD
Lagos (Tin Can)	Nigeria	32–42 days	$1,080	LHD
Casablanca	Morocco	30–38 days	$1,040	LHD
Karachi	Pakistan	14–20 days	$720	RHD
Colombo	Sri Lanka	12–18 days	$700	RHD
Georgetown	Guyana	35–45 days	$1,290	RHD
Santos	Brazil	38–48 days	$1,350	LHD

Talk to us

Contact Us

Real people, real stock. Tell us the model you want and the country you are in, and we send a written quotation with the cash price, the installment plan and the full shipping cost to your nearest port.

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Sales & quotationsWhatsApp +86 162 6580 0312
Written quote within one business day, including duties guidance for your country.

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Phone & WhatsApp+86 162 6580 0312
Voice, WhatsApp and video walk-arounds of any car in stock.

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Head officeJDM Motors Export Ltd.
Tianhe District, Guangzhou, Guangdong, China

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Opening hoursMonday to Saturday, 09:00–18:00 (GMT+8)
Enquiries sent at night are answered the next morning.

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Finance & documentsWhatsApp +86 162 6580 0312
Installment applications, invoices, bills of lading and export certificates.

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Privacy requestsWhatsApp +86 162 6580 0312
Access, correction or deletion of your personal data, handled within 30 days.

Send an enquiry

Request a price and shipping quote

The more detail you give us — model, colour, budget and destination port — the more accurate your quotation will be.

Who we are

About JDM Motors

An independent vehicle exporter based in Guangzhou, China, shipping inspected Japanese, Chinese and European cars to private buyers and small dealers in more than 190 countries.

JDM Motors began in 2011 as a two-person buying office at the Japanese auto auctions. Our founders were tired of watching overseas buyers pay for cars they had never seen, described in one line of text, with a shipping bill that doubled after the invoice was signed. We built the opposite of that: every vehicle we list is physically inspected, photographed and graded before it is offered, and every quotation states the cash price, the installment schedule and the freight cost to your port on the same page.

What we actually do

We buy at Japanese and Chinese auctions and from fleet disposals, inspect each unit against the auction sheet, handle export de-registration and customs paperwork, book the RoRo or container space, and hand you the bill of lading. Where local law allows, we arrange installment plans through partner finance houses so the car can be paid over 12 to 60 months instead of one lump sum.

How we make money — and how we stay honest

Our margin is the difference between the auction price and the FOB price shown on the site, plus a fixed export handling fee. We do not take hidden commissions from shipping lines, and we do not charge inspection fees for cars you decide not to buy. This website also carries third-party advertising, which helps keep our buyer guides free to read; advertising never influences which vehicles we recommend or how they are ranked.

Editorial standards

The buyer guides, port tables and finance explanations on this site are written by our own export staff from day-to-day shipping experience, then reviewed against the current published tariffs of the destination countries we serve most. Auction grades quoted in each listing come from the original Japanese auction sheet. Where a figure is an estimate — transit times, duties, fuel economy — we say so rather than presenting it as a guarantee.

About the photographs

Vehicle photographs on this site are illustrative images of the same model, sourced from Wikimedia Commons under free licences, with the file name, author and licence credited on every vehicle page. They show the model, not the exact unit in stock. Photographs of the specific chassis you are buying are sent to you by email or WhatsApp before any payment is made — and you can attach your own photo of any listing using the camera button on the card if you want to compare it with a car you have already seen.

Company details

JDM Motors Export Ltd. · Tianhe District, Guangzhou, Guangdong, China · Telephone +86 162 6580 0312 · WhatsApp +86 162 6580 0312 · Operating since 2011 · Members of the Japanese auto auction network and registered with Chinese export customs.

Note: enquiries are handled on WhatsApp at +86 162 6580 0312 and through the enquiry form on this site. The showroom address shown is indicative — please confirm an appointment with us before visiting.

Legal

Terms of Use & Disclaimer

Last updated: September 2026. By using this website you accept the terms below. If you do not accept them, please do not use the site.

1. What this website is

This site presents vehicles available for export and explains how our installment and shipping services work. Listings are invitations to enquire, not binding offers of sale. A sale exists only when a written pro-forma invoice is issued by us and accepted by you.

2. Prices, availability and specifications

All prices are indicative FOB values in US dollars and exclude destination duties, VAT, port charges and local registration. The euro figures shown by the currency switch are converted at an indicative rate for guidance only. Stock moves daily; a vehicle shown here may already be sold. Specifications, mileage and auction grades are taken from the auction sheet and inspection report and may contain transcription errors, which we correct as soon as they are reported.

3. Finance calculations

The payment calculator is an educational tool. It applies a standard amortisation formula to the figures you enter and does not constitute a credit offer, a rate quotation or financial advice. Real installment terms depend on the partner lender, your country, your documents and your credit assessment.

4. Shipping estimates

Transit times and freight prices in the port table are typical values from recent shipments. Weather, port congestion, customs inspection and carrier schedule changes routinely alter them. We are not liable for losses caused by delays outside our control.

5. Import legality

Age limits, steering-side rules, emissions standards and inspection requirements differ in every country and change often. It is the buyer's responsibility to confirm that a vehicle may legally be imported and registered at the destination before ordering. We will advise from experience, but our advice does not replace the ruling of your customs authority.

6. Images and content

Vehicle photographs are illustrative images of the same model, reused from Wikimedia Commons under their respective free licences and credited on each vehicle page; they do not depict the individual unit for sale. Any photograph you upload through the camera button stays on your own device in your browser's local storage and is never transmitted to us. All original text, layout and code on this site are our property and may not be republished without permission.

7. Advertising

This site displays third-party advertising, including Google AdSense. Adverts are clearly separated from editorial content and labelled as advertisements. We do not control which adverts are shown and do not endorse the advertisers or products that appear.

8. Limitation of liability

To the fullest extent permitted by law, the site is provided "as is" and we exclude liability for indirect or consequential loss arising from use of the information published here. Nothing in these terms limits liability for fraud or for anything that cannot lawfully be limited.

9. Governing law and contact

These terms are governed by the laws of the People's Republic of China. Questions about them should be sent to WhatsApp +86 162 6580 0312 or the enquiry form on this site.

Legal

Privacy Policy

Last updated: September 2026. This policy explains what JDM Motors Export Ltd. (Tianhe District, Guangzhou, China — the data controller) collects when you use this website, why we collect it, who else can see it, and how you can get it removed. Questions and requests: WhatsApp +86 162 6580 0312.

1. Information We Collect

We collect the details you voluntarily submit through our contact and finance forms: name, email, phone number, country and the vehicle you are interested in. We also collect standard technical data such as browser type, device, referring page and anonymised IP address.

2. How We Use Your Data

Your data is used only to answer enquiries, prepare installment quotations, arrange shipping documentation and improve our website. We never sell personal data to third parties.

3. Photos You Upload

The camera button on a vehicle card lets you attach your own photo to that listing. The image is resized and stored only in your own browser's local storage on that device. It is never uploaded to our servers, never sent to advertisers and never seen by us. Clearing your browser data, or pressing "Restore original photo", deletes it permanently.

4. Cookies and Advertising

We use three kinds of cookies and similar local storage. Essential storage keeps your currency choice, your saved-car shortlist and any photo you attach on your own device; without it those features cannot work. Analytics cookies count visits and show us which guides are read. Advertising cookies are set by third parties to select and measure adverts.

Third-party vendors, including Google, use cookies to serve adverts based on your prior visits to this or other websites. Google's use of advertising cookies enables it and its partners to serve adverts to you based on your visit to this site and other sites on the internet. You may opt out of personalised advertising in your Google Ads Settings (google.com/settings/ads), or opt out of third-party vendor cookies at aboutads.info/choices and youronlinechoices.eu. Where required, Google and its partners rely on a consent mechanism before setting non-essential cookies, and you can withdraw consent at any time by clearing this site's data in your browser.

5. Third-Party Services

We may use Google Analytics, Google AdSense, Google Maps and payment or shipping providers. Each operates under its own privacy policy, and we recommend reviewing them.

6. Data Retention and Security

Enquiry records are kept for up to 24 months and stored on encrypted servers with restricted access. Financing documents are retained as required by applicable export law.

7. Your Rights (GDPR, UK GDPR and CCPA)

You can request access to, correction of, portability of, restriction of, or deletion of your personal data at any time by contacting us on WhatsApp +86 162 6580 0312. We answer within 30 days and never charge for a first request. Our lawful bases are your consent (enquiry forms, non-essential cookies) and legitimate interest (answering you, keeping export records). If you are in the EEA or UK you may also complain to your local data protection authority. If you are a California resident you have the right to know what we collect, to delete it, and to opt out of any sale or sharing of personal information — we do not sell or share personal information as those terms are defined by the CCPA.

8. Children's Privacy

Our services are not directed to anyone under 18 and we do not knowingly collect their data.

9. Changes to This Policy

Any updates will be posted on this page with a revised date. Continued use of the site means you accept the updated policy.

10. Contact

Data controller: JDM Motors Export Ltd., Tianhe District, Guangzhou, Guangdong, China. Privacy and general enquiries: WhatsApp +86 162 6580 0312 or the enquiry form on this site.

Read the Terms of Use & Disclaimer · About us · Contact

Home › Journal › Installments

Installments

Buying a Car in Monthly Installments From Abroad: The Complete 2026 Guide

DK Daniel Koto · Export finance desk · Updated January 2026 · 12 min read

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A buyer and a finance officer signing a car installment contract in a showroom

Most of our installment files are approved in under 48 hours when the paperwork arrives complete.

Ten years ago, buying a car from another continent in monthly payments was almost impossible unless you were a fleet company. Today it is routine: we close installment files every week for teachers in Nairobi, taxi operators in Lima, engineers in Jeddah and shop owners in Manila. The mechanics are not complicated, but they are different from walking into a local bank, and the buyers who understand those differences get better rates and far fewer delays.

This guide explains exactly how an export installment plan is built, what the numbers mean, what documents you need, and where buyers lose money without noticing.

What you will learn

How an export installment plan actually works
Choosing a deposit that protects you
Reading the interest rate honestly
The documents that speed up approval
Five mistakes that cost real money

1. How an export installment plan actually works

An export installment plan has three moving parts: the vehicle price, the deposit you pay before shipping, and the balance you repay over a fixed number of months. The vehicle is invoiced at an FOB price — the price of the car loaded onto the ship at the port of origin. Freight, insurance and local duties sit outside that figure, which is why two quotes that look identical on paper can end up thousands of dollars apart when the car reaches your driveway.

Once your deposit clears, the car is booked into a sailing and the repayment schedule starts on an agreed date, usually 30 days after loading rather than 30 days after arrival. That single detail surprises many first-time buyers: your first instalment can fall due while the vehicle is still at sea. Ask for the exact start date in writing before you sign anything.

Terms typically run from 12 to 72 months. Shorter terms cost less overall but demand a heavier monthly commitment. Longer terms feel comfortable, yet on a $12,000 car the difference between 36 and 72 months can be more than $2,000 in total interest.

2. Choosing a deposit that protects you

Deposits normally start at 10% of the vehicle price and rise to 60% for buyers who want the lowest possible monthly figure. There is no universally correct number, but there is a useful rule: your deposit should be large enough that the car is worth more than the outstanding balance from the first month onwards. Cars depreciate fastest in their first year on the road, and a thin deposit on a long term leaves you owing more than the vehicle can be sold for — the classic negative-equity trap.

In practice, a 20% to 25% deposit on a four-year term keeps most buyers on the safe side of that line. It also tends to unlock a better rate, because the exporter's risk drops sharply once the buyer has real money in the vehicle.

Buyer using a monthly car payment calculator on a smartphone

Run the numbers yourself before you talk to any salesperson — it changes the conversation.

3. Reading the interest rate honestly

Two rates are quoted in this industry and they are not the same thing. A flat rate is calculated on the original amount financed for the whole term. A reducing-balance rate is calculated on what you still owe, so it falls month after month. A 6% flat rate is roughly equivalent to an 11% reducing-balance rate over four years. If a quote does not say which method is used, that is your first question.

Here is what the same $14,000 car looks like under three common structures, with a 20% deposit:

Term	Financed	Approx. monthly	Total interest
24 months	$11,200	$498	$752
48 months	$11,200	$266	$1,568
72 months	$11,200	$189	$2,408

Figures use a 6.5% annual reducing-balance rate and are illustrative; your final schedule depends on the country, the model and your file. Use our calculator to test your own combination in a few seconds.

“The cheapest instalment is rarely the cheapest car. Compare the total repaid, not the monthly number.”

4. The documents that speed up approval

Approval speed is almost entirely a paperwork problem. Files that arrive complete are usually answered within one business day; files that arrive in pieces drag on for weeks. Prepare these before you enquire:

Government photo ID or passport — clear, uncropped, still valid for at least six months.
Proof of income — three to six months of payslips, or business bank statements if you are self-employed.
Proof of address — a utility bill or a bank letter no older than three months.
Deposit source — a bank statement showing the funds. Cash appearing overnight triggers extra checks in every jurisdiction.
A local reference — an employer letter or a business registration certificate. This single page often decides borderline files.

What underwriters actually look at

Nobody expects a perfect credit history. What matters is stability: how long you have earned money from the same source, whether the deposit is genuinely yours, and whether the monthly payment is a sensible share of your income. A payment above roughly one third of monthly income is where most files start getting trimmed to a longer term or a smaller car.

5. Five mistakes that cost real money

Budgeting only for the car. Duties, port handling and registration can add 20% to 80% depending on your country. Ask for a landed-cost estimate, not just an FOB price.
Ignoring currency risk. If you earn in a local currency and repay in dollars, a 10% swing changes your instalment. Fixing the schedule in your earning currency is worth asking about.
Stretching the term to afford a bigger car. A 72-month plan on a vehicle you will grow tired of in three years is the most common regret we hear.
Skipping the inspection report. It is free, it is detailed, and it is the only proof of condition you will ever have.
Paying a deposit to a personal account. Legitimate exporters invoice from a registered company and receive funds in a company account. No exceptions.

Key takeaways

Deposit of 20–25% and a term of 48 months suits most private buyers.
Always ask whether the quoted rate is flat or reducing-balance.
Complete paperwork is the difference between 48 hours and three weeks.
Compare the total amount repaid plus landed cost, never the monthly figure alone.

Frequently asked questions

Can I settle the balance early?

Yes. On a reducing-balance plan you simply stop paying future interest, which can save hundreds of dollars. Confirm there is no early-settlement penalty before signing.

What happens if I miss a payment?

Tell us before the due date, not after. A one-off reschedule is almost always possible; silence is what turns a small problem into a recovery case.

Do I need a local guarantor?

Only for larger amounts or for buyers with no documented income history. Most private buyers never need one.

Ready to see your real monthly figure?

Pick any car in stock, set your deposit and term, and get an instant estimate — no registration required.

Home › Journal › Shipping

Shipping

Shipping a Car Overseas: RoRo vs Container, Real Costs and Real Timelines

LM Lena Mensah · Logistics team · Updated January 2026 · 11 min read

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Roll-on roll-off car carrier being loaded with vehicles at a port at sunset

A single RoRo vessel can carry more than 6,000 vehicles across an ocean in one sailing.

The car is the easy part. Moving it four thousand nautical miles, through two customs regimes and a port terminal that charges by the day, is where buyers discover the details nobody explained. After a few thousand shipments, the pattern is always the same: the people who ask three specific questions before booking pay less and wait less.

This guide covers the two shipping methods, what they genuinely cost, how long each route takes, and how to avoid the fees that appear at the destination.

Contents

RoRo: the workhorse method
Container: when it is worth the extra
What shipping really costs by region
Timelines you can plan around
Fees you can avoid entirely

1. RoRo: the workhorse of car exports

Roll-on/roll-off means exactly that. Your car is driven up a ramp, parked on a deck, chocked and lashed, and driven off at the other end. There is no crate, no container, no loading equipment. Because the vessel is purpose-built for vehicles, RoRo is the cheapest way to move a single car and usually the fastest to release at destination, since the vehicle leaves the terminal on its own wheels.

The trade-offs are real but manageable. The car must be running and drivable. You cannot ship personal belongings inside it — port authorities will not accept it, and if they do, customs will treat those items as undeclared cargo. The vehicle is also exposed to the deck environment: salt air, occasional handling marks, and the small dents that come from thousands of cars being parked centimetres apart.

For a standard hatchback, sedan or SUV in good condition, RoRo is the right answer roughly eight times out of ten.

2. Container shipping: when it is worth the extra

In a container the vehicle is strapped inside a steel box, either alone in a 20-foot unit or sharing a 40-foot unit with one or two other cars. Nothing touches it between origin and destination. That protection is why container shipping is standard for classics, low-mileage performance cars, non-runners and any vehicle where a scratch matters more than $600.

Sharing a container

Consolidated loading — two or three cars in one 40-foot container — brings the per-car price close to RoRo while keeping the protection. The catch is scheduling: the container only sails when it is full, which can add one to three weeks. If your date is flexible, it is the best value in the industry.

Spare parts and belongings

A container also lets you legally ship declared spare parts, tyres or household goods alongside the vehicle. Everything must appear on the packing list. An undeclared item is the single fastest way to have a container pulled for physical inspection, which costs both money and a week.

Imported vehicles and customs paperwork at a destination port terminal

Free storage at destination usually ends between day 3 and day 7 — that clock is the expensive one.

3. What shipping really costs

Ocean freight is quoted per vehicle for RoRo and per container for FCL. Prices move with fuel and season, but these ranges from Asian ports have been stable enough to plan with:

Destination region	RoRo (sedan)	20ft container	Transit
Gulf / Middle East	$550 – $850	$1,100 – $1,600	12 – 18 days
East Africa	$900 – $1,300	$1,700 – $2,400	25 – 32 days
West Africa	$1,000 – $1,500	$1,900 – $2,700	30 – 38 days
South America	$1,200 – $1,800	$2,100 – $3,000	32 – 45 days
Caribbean	$1,300 – $1,900	$2,200 – $3,100	35 – 45 days

Add marine insurance at roughly 1.5% to 2% of the vehicle value. It is optional in most contracts and it is the cheapest peace of mind you will ever buy: a total loss at sea is rare, but it is not theoretical.

4. Timelines you can actually plan around

A realistic schedule from payment to keys in hand has five stages: inspection and documentation (2–5 days), inland transport to the port (1–3 days), waiting for the sailing (3–10 days), ocean transit (see table), and customs clearance at destination (2–10 days). The stage buyers underestimate is the wait for a sailing. Vessels on a given route may leave weekly, not daily, and missing a cut-off by a few hours costs a full week.

You will receive the bill of lading once the vessel departs. From that moment the shipment is trackable by vessel name and voyage number, and you can give your clearing agent an accurate arrival date instead of a guess.

5. The fees you can avoid entirely

Demurrage and storage. Free time at the terminal is short. Have your agent appointed and your funds ready before the ship arrives, not after.
Amendment fees. A misspelled consignee name on the bill of lading costs money and days to correct. Check the draft carefully — you get one clean chance.
Cleaning and quarantine. Countries such as Australia and New Zealand reject vehicles with soil on the underbody. A proper steam clean before loading is far cheaper than a re-clean at destination.
Fuel-level penalties. RoRo carriers require a quarter tank or less. Arriving full means a delay while it is drained.

Key takeaways

RoRo is cheapest and fastest for a normal running car; containers protect high-value vehicles.
Budget freight plus 1.5–2% insurance, then add local duties separately.
Most delays happen before the ship sails and after it arrives, not at sea.
Appoint your clearing agent before the vessel docks to avoid storage charges.

Shipping FAQ

Can I track my car during the voyage?

Yes. Once the bill of lading is issued you can follow the vessel in real time on any public tracking service using the voyage number we provide.

Who pays the duties?

The buyer, always, in the destination country. We can estimate them for your country, but they are paid locally to your customs authority.

What if the car is damaged in transit?

Note the damage on the delivery receipt before signing and photograph it at the terminal. Without that note, an insurance claim becomes very difficult.

Want a landed cost for your port?

Send us the model and your nearest port and we will return freight, insurance and a duty estimate in writing.

Home › Journal › Best sellers

Best sellers

The Top 3 Most Requested Cars On Our Export Desk — And Who Should Buy Them

RS Ryo Sakamoto · Sales desk · Updated January 2026 · 10 min read

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Three of the most requested export cars lined up in a studio

Three body styles cover more than half of everything we ship.

Every quarter we count the enquiries. Not the sales — the enquiries, because that shows what people actually want before budget forces a compromise. The list barely moves: a compact Japanese hatchback, a mid-size crossover, and a seven-seat people carrier. Between them they account for well over half of the messages that reach our desk.

Here is what each one is genuinely good at, what it costs to run, and who ends up disappointed.

In this article

No. 1 — The compact Japanese hatchback
No. 2 — The mid-size crossover
No. 3 — The seven-seat people carrier
Side-by-side comparison

No. 1 — The compact Japanese hatchback

Nothing else comes close on volume. A five-door, 1.0 to 1.5 litre Japanese hatchback is the default first import in almost every market we serve, and the reasons are boringly practical: it is cheap to buy, cheap to insure, cheap to fix, and every mechanic within ten kilometres has already worked on one.

Fuel consumption of 4.5 to 5.5 litres per 100 km is normal, and the engines are famously unstressed — many are still running smoothly past 250,000 km with nothing more than oil, filters and belts. Parts availability is the hidden advantage. A wing mirror or a control arm for a mainstream Japanese hatchback exists in every parts market in the world, usually for a fraction of what a European equivalent costs.

Who should buy it

City drivers, first-time owners, families with one or two children, and anyone who will do their own maintenance. Also the strongest choice for ride-hailing work, where fuel and downtime decide whether the car earns money.

Who should not

Buyers who regularly drive rough rural roads. Low ground clearance is the one genuine weakness, and it is not something you can fix with tyres alone.

No. 2 — The mid-size crossover

The crossover is what buyers move to as soon as the budget allows. Higher seating, 180 to 210 mm of ground clearance, a boot that swallows a month of shopping, and enough presence to feel like a step up. Most are front-wheel drive with an optional all-wheel-drive version that costs more to buy and more to fuel; unless you face snow or deep sand regularly, the front-wheel-drive version is the smarter purchase.

Running costs sit roughly 20% above the hatchback: expect 6.5 to 8 litres per 100 km, larger tyres, and slightly pricier brakes. In exchange you get a car that handles broken tarmac without flinching, which in many of our markets is worth more than the fuel difference.

“Nine out of ten crossover buyers tell us the same thing after a year: the ground clearance, not the badge, was the reason it was the right car.”

What to check before buying

Suspension bushings and CV joints on higher-mileage units, and the condition of the CVT if it has one. A CVT that hesitates on a test drive will not improve. Ask for the transmission fluid history — it should be changed far more often than most owners realise.

Modern Chinese electric crossovers charging at a station

Electric crossovers from Chinese makers are now the fastest-growing request in this segment.

No. 3 — The seven-seat people carrier

The third place belongs to the MPV or seven-seat van — the vehicle that quietly earns a living. Large families buy them, but so do school transport operators, hotel shuttles and small tour businesses. Sliding doors, a flat floor and folding third-row seats make them useful in a way no SUV manages.

The economics are simple: one people carrier replaces two cars for a large family, and for a transport operator it doubles the revenue per trip without doubling the fuel. Diesel versions remain popular for high-mileage commercial use, while petrol and hybrid versions are easier to maintain where diesel quality is inconsistent.

The trap to avoid

Ex-fleet units with very high mileage and cosmetic refreshes. A repainted bumper and new seat covers hide nothing mechanical. Insist on a documented service history and an inspection sheet with the mileage verified against the maintenance records.

Side-by-side comparison

	Compact hatchback	Mid-size crossover	Seven-seat MPV
Typical export price	$3,900 – $9,000	$9,000 – $19,000	$8,500 – $22,000
Fuel (L/100 km)	4.5 – 5.5	6.5 – 8.0	7.5 – 9.5
Ground clearance	140 – 160 mm	180 – 210 mm	150 – 175 mm
Best for	City, ride-hailing	Mixed roads, families	Large families, shuttles
Annual maintenance	Low	Medium	Medium

Key takeaways

The compact hatchback wins on total cost of ownership almost everywhere.
Buy the crossover for ground clearance, not for the all-wheel drive badge.
A seven-seater pays for itself only if the extra seats are used weekly.
Service history beats low mileage every single time.

Questions buyers ask us

Which of the three holds its value best?

The compact hatchback, by a clear margin, because demand for it never softens in the second-hand market.

Is a hybrid worth the premium?

In heavy city traffic, yes — the fuel saving usually covers the premium within three years. On open highways the advantage shrinks considerably.

See what is in stock right now

Filter 65 inspected vehicles by budget, body type and monthly payment.

Home › Journal › Buyer guide

Buyer guide

The Cars Women Buyers Actually Choose — And The Reasons Behind It

AM Amina Farouk · Customer research · Updated January 2026 · 10 min read

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Two women with shopping bags beside a compact city car on an urban street

Visibility, parking confidence and running cost outrank horsepower in almost every conversation.

Roughly four in ten of our private buyers are women, and the enquiries they send look measurably different from the average. They mention parking, visibility, boot height, safety ratings and service cost far more often than engine size or acceleration. That is not a stereotype — it is what the messages say, month after month.

So instead of guessing, we went through a year of enquiries and asked which cars were shortlisted, which were bought, and what buyers said afterwards. Here is the honest summary.

Contents

The five criteria that decide the purchase
The city hatchback: still the favourite
The compact SUV: the confidence buy
Safety features worth paying for
Keeping the running cost predictable

1. The five criteria that decide the purchase

Across hundreds of enquiries the same five themes appear, roughly in this order of importance:

Easy parking. A tight turning circle, a rear camera and compact dimensions matter more than anything else in dense cities.
All-round visibility. Thin windscreen pillars and a high, adjustable driving position. Buyers describe it as “being able to see the corners of the car”.
Predictable cost. Not just fuel — the price of a service, a tyre and a headlight unit.
Real safety equipment. Autonomous emergency braking, curtain airbags, ISOFIX points, a stability control system that actually engages.
Practical access. A low boot lip, wide-opening rear doors, and somewhere sensible to put a bag that is not the passenger footwell.

Notice what is absent: power, badge prestige and top speed. They appear occasionally, but they almost never decide the shortlist.

2. The city hatchback — still the clear favourite

A 3.7 to 4.0 metre hatchback with a turning circle under 10 metres remains the most requested car in this group, and once bought it is the least regretted. It slots into parking spaces other cars pass by, it costs very little to run, and it is light enough that even a modest engine feels responsive in traffic.

The models that win comparisons share three traits: a high hip point so you sit up rather than down, a boot floor at roughly knee height, and physical buttons for climate and volume instead of a touchscreen submenu. That last point comes up constantly and is almost never mentioned in reviews written by manufacturers.

What to check on a used one

Kerbed alloy wheels and scuffed bumper corners are normal city wear and are useful negotiating points, but check the suspension for damage from potholes and kerb strikes. Ask specifically whether the car has ever needed a wheel alignment after an impact.

3. The compact SUV — the confidence buy

The second favourite is the small crossover, and buyers are refreshingly direct about why: the seating position. Sitting 15 to 20 centimetres higher transforms how safe a driver feels in traffic surrounded by trucks and buses. The extra ground clearance also removes the daily anxiety of speed bumps and unpaved side streets.

The compromise is size. Many compact SUVs are the same length as a mid-size sedan, which cancels the parking advantage of the hatchback. If parking is your daily battle, measure the space you actually park in before falling in love with the seating position.

Compact hatchback and small SUV compared side by side

A small SUV feels safer; a hatchback parks better. Decide which one you do more often.

4. Safety features genuinely worth paying for

Not every acronym on the brochure earns its price. These four consistently do:

Feature	Why it matters	Worth the premium?
Autonomous emergency braking	Cuts low-speed rear-end collisions dramatically	Yes, always
Rear camera + sensors	Prevents the most common parking damage	Yes
Blind-spot monitoring	Valuable on multi-lane roads and highways	Yes, if you commute
Curtain airbags	Side-impact protection for rear passengers	Non-negotiable with children

Two more are worth checking rather than paying extra for: ISOFIX anchor points on both outer rear seats, and a tyre pressure monitoring system. Both are standard on most cars built after 2015 — verify rather than assume.

5. Keeping the running cost predictable

Predictability beats cheapness. A car that costs a little more to service but never surprises you is easier to own than a bargain that needs an unusual part every year. Three habits keep costs flat:

Choose a model sold in volume in your country. Parts are cheaper, mechanics are experienced, and resale is faster.
Budget for tyres from day one. A set is often the largest single maintenance expense in the first three years.
Keep the service book stamped. It costs nothing and adds real value when you sell.

“I wanted the one that would never leave me stranded with two kids in the back. That was the whole brief.” — a buyer in Accra, on choosing a five-year-old hatchback over a newer, rarer model.

Key takeaways

Parking ease, visibility and predictable cost decide most purchases.
Physical climate and audio controls are a real ergonomic advantage.
Emergency braking and curtain airbags are worth paying for; badge prestige is not.
Pick a model that is common where you live — it lowers every future bill.

Common questions

Is an automatic worth the extra cost?

In stop-start city traffic, almost always. Check whether it is a conventional automatic or a CVT, and ask for the transmission service history either way.

Should I buy new or two years old?

A two-year-old car has already absorbed the steepest depreciation while keeping most of its warranty and all of its safety equipment. For most buyers it is the sweet spot.

Not sure which body style fits your week?

Tell us where you drive and how many passengers you carry, and we will shortlist three cars from current stock.

Home › Journal › Electric

Electric

Are Chinese Electric Cars Worth Importing in 2026? An Honest Assessment

WZ Wei Zhang · Vehicle sourcing · Updated January 2026 · 9 min read

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Row of Chinese electric cars charging at a modern station at dusk

Chinese EVs now make up close to a third of the new vehicles we load each month.

Five years ago, importing a Chinese electric car was a gamble. Today it is one of the most common requests we receive, and the reason is arithmetic: the same money buys more range, more equipment and a longer battery warranty than anything else on the market. But that does not make it the right car for every buyer, and the failure cases are predictable enough to describe precisely.

Contents

What Chinese EVs genuinely do well
Battery chemistry and warranty
Charging reality outside big cities
Parts, service and resale
The verdict — who should buy one

1. What they genuinely do well

Value per dollar is the headline. A Chinese electric hatchback or crossover typically arrives with a large touchscreen, a 360-degree camera, adaptive cruise control, heated seats and an eight-year battery warranty at a price where competitors offer cloth seats and a radio. Build quality has improved to the point where panel gaps and paint depth are no longer a distinguishing weakness.

Running cost is the second argument. Electricity at typical residential tariffs works out to roughly a quarter to a third of the fuel cost per kilometre, and an electric drivetrain has no oil changes, no timing belt, no exhaust and far less brake wear thanks to regeneration. For a driver covering 25,000 km a year, that difference alone is a meaningful annual saving.

2. Battery chemistry and what the warranty really covers

Most affordable Chinese EVs use lithium iron phosphate (LFP) cells rather than nickel-based chemistry. The practical consequences matter:

	LFP	NMC (nickel-based)
Cycle life	Longer — 3,000+ cycles common	Shorter
Charging to 100%	Recommended regularly	Best limited to 80%
Cold weather	Weaker; slower charging	Better
Energy density	Lower — heavier for the same range	Higher

In hot climates — which describes most of the markets we ship to — LFP is the better bet. Read the warranty text carefully: eight years is usually conditional on the pack retaining above 70% of its original capacity, and on service records being maintained. Capacity degradation below that threshold is covered; a pack damaged by flooding or by a non-approved charger is not.

3. Charging reality outside the big cities

This is where honest advice matters more than enthusiasm. A car with 400 km of claimed range delivers roughly 300 to 340 km in real mixed driving, less with air conditioning at full effort. If your daily distance is under 100 km and you can charge overnight at home, that is entirely comfortable. If you regularly drive 400 km between towns without reliable fast charging, an electric car will frustrate you, no matter how good it is.

Before buying, answer three questions: can you install a home charger safely, is your household supply strong enough for a 7 kW wall box, and where is the nearest public fast charger you have personally seen working? Public charging maps are optimistic. Local knowledge is not.

Electric vehicles being loaded onto a car carrier ship for export

Batteries are dangerous goods: EVs ship at a reduced state of charge, usually between 30% and 50%.

4. Parts, service and resale value

Mechanically an EV asks very little: tyres, cabin filters, brake fluid, coolant for the battery circuit. The risk is not maintenance, it is repair. A damaged battery pack or a failed inverter needs a trained technician and a genuine part, and in markets where the brand has no official presence that can mean weeks of waiting.

The mitigation is straightforward. Buy a model the brand actually sells in your region, confirm there is a service point within reasonable distance, and order a small spare kit — charging cable, cabin filters, wiper blades, a set of fuses — in the same shipment. It costs little and removes the most common sources of delay.

Resale is improving but still market-dependent. In countries with fuel subsidies and weak charging infrastructure, used EV values are soft. In cities with congestion charges or EV incentives, they hold up well. Check what similar cars are actually selling for locally before you assume either outcome.

5. The verdict

Buy a Chinese EV if you drive predictable urban distances, can charge at home, live in a market with some official brand presence, and value equipment per dollar. Choose a hybrid or an efficient petrol car instead if you do long rural trips, cannot charge overnight, or need a vehicle any roadside mechanic can fix with basic tools.

Key takeaways

Equipment and running cost per dollar are class-leading; that part is not marketing.
LFP batteries suit hot climates and can be charged to 100% regularly.
Real range is roughly 80% of the advertised figure in mixed driving.
Confirm local service support before ordering, not after.

EV import FAQ

Can an electric car be shipped by RoRo?

Yes, with the battery at a reduced state of charge and a declaration for the shipping line. Some carriers prefer containers for EVs; we book whichever the line accepts on your route.

Will the charging plug match my country?

Not always. Confirm the connector type and voltage before purchase — an adapter or a replacement cable is inexpensive if it is ordered with the car.

Thinking about an electric import?

Send us your city and your daily distance and we will tell you honestly whether an EV makes sense for you.

Home › Journal › Inspection

Inspection

The 40-Point Pre-Export Inspection Every Used Car Should Pass

TN Tomás Nunes · Workshop team · Updated January 2026 · 10 min read

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Technician performing a pre-export inspection on a used car in a workshop

Every car we load is photographed, measured and scored before it is allowed near the port.

You cannot test drive a car that is nine thousand kilometres away. The inspection report is the substitute, and it is only as good as the checks behind it. This is the sequence our workshop follows, written so you can use it as a checklist whether you buy from us or from anyone else.

The five stages

Identity and history
Body, paint and structure
Mechanical and road test
Interior, electrics and safety
How to read the report you receive

Stage 1 — Identity and history

Before a spanner is lifted, the paperwork must agree with the metal. We photograph the VIN plate, the chassis stamping and the engine number and match all three against the registration document and the export certificate. A mismatch stops the process immediately — no exceptions, because a car that cannot be identified cannot be cleared at destination either.

Mileage is verified against service stamps, inspection records and the vehicle's own electronic history where the manufacturer supports it. An odometer reading that contradicts the service book is recorded as unverified on the report rather than quietly ignored.

Stage 2 — Body, paint and structure

The car is washed, dried and taken into consistent light. A paint depth gauge is used on every panel; original factory paint reads in a narrow band, and a panel reading two or three times thicker has been resprayed or filled. That is not automatically a problem — a repaired door on a ten-year-old car is normal — but it must be disclosed and photographed.

Structural checks follow: panel gaps compared left to right, inner wing seams and spot welds examined for signs of replacement, boot floor and spare wheel well checked for ripples that indicate a rear impact, and the underbody inspected for corrosion, particularly around sills, subframe mounts and brake line routing.

The rust rule

Surface rust on a subframe is cosmetic. Rust that has scaled, flaked or perforated a structural member is a rejection. Cars from cold, salted-road regions get extra attention here, because the damage is usually hidden above the sill trim rather than visible from below.

Stage 3 — Mechanical and road test

Cold start first — many faults only reveal themselves in the first thirty seconds. We listen for tapping, rattle from the timing chain area, and exhaust smoke colour. Then a diagnostic scan reads both current and stored fault codes; codes that have been recently cleared show up as an empty readiness monitor and are reported as such.

Compression or leak-down check where the engine's behaviour suggests it.
Fluid condition and level: oil, coolant, brake fluid, transmission fluid, power steering.
Automatic transmission fluid colour and smell; burnt fluid is an instant flag.
A road test of at least 10 km covering cold running, full warm-up, braking from speed, and steady highway cruising.
Brake disc thickness measured, pad life estimated in millimetres rather than percentages.
Suspension bounce test, plus a lift inspection of bushings, ball joints, CV boots and steering rack gaiters.
Tyres: brand, size, tread depth in millimetres and the manufacturing date code on each tyre.

Inspected vehicles awaiting loading and documentation at the port

The inspection sheet travels with the car and is handed to the buyer with the shipping documents.

Stage 4 — Interior, electrics and safety

Every electrical function is operated once: windows, mirrors, central locking, all lighting including reverse and fog lamps, wipers and washers, horn, air conditioning temperature measured at the vent, heated seats, infotainment, cameras and parking sensors. Airbag warning lights are checked at ignition and after start — a bulb that never illuminates is as suspicious as one that stays on.

We also check for water ingress, which is the defect most often hidden. Carpets are lifted at the front footwells and in the spare wheel well, and seatbelt webbing is pulled fully out and inspected for staining or a tide line. A car that has been flooded almost always shows it there first.

Finally the equipment inventory: both keys, service book, owner's manual, spare wheel or repair kit, jack, wheel brace and locking wheel nut key. Missing items are listed rather than assumed.

Stage 5 — How to read the report you receive

A useful report has four things. First, photographs with a timestamp — at least forty of them, including the underbody and the engine bay. Second, measured values rather than adjectives: 4.2 mm of tread, not "good tyres". Third, a defect list that includes small items; a report with zero defects on a used car is not thorough, it is decorative. Fourth, a named inspector.

Grade	What it means	Typical action
A	No structural repair, minor cosmetic wear only	Ship as is
B	Repaired cosmetic damage, all disclosed	Ship with photo record
C	Mechanical work required before sale	Repair, re-inspect, then ship
R	Structural damage, flood or VIN mismatch	Rejected

Key takeaways

Identity checks come before everything; a VIN mismatch ends the process.
Paint depth readings expose repairs that the eye cannot see.
Measured numbers beat vague descriptions on any inspection sheet.
A report listing no defects at all is a warning sign, not a reassurance.

Inspection FAQ

Can I send my own inspector?

Yes. Independent third-party inspection is welcome at our yard during working hours, at your cost.

Do you repair faults before shipping?

Grade C items are repaired and re-inspected before loading. Cosmetic wear is disclosed and left as is unless you ask for it to be addressed.

Want the inspection sheet for a specific car?

Tell us the stock number and we will email the full photo report before you pay anything.

Home › Journal › Customs

Customs

Customs Clearance Without Surprises: Duties, Documents and Port Fees Explained

SO Samuel Okoro · Documentation desk · Updated January 2026 · 9 min read

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Imported vehicles and clearing documents at a destination port

Nine out of ten clearance delays we see are caused by one missing or mismatched document.

The ocean crossing is predictable. Customs is where budgets break. A car that cost $8,000 at the port of origin can cost $13,000 by the time it is registered, and almost none of that difference is a surprise if you ask the right questions before you pay a deposit.

This guide explains how import duty is calculated, which documents must travel with the vehicle, what the terminal will charge you, and the specific mistakes that turn a three-day clearance into a three-week one.

Contents

How duty is calculated
The document set that must be perfect
Terminal and agent fees
Age limits and inspection rules
A clearance plan that works

1. How import duty is actually calculated

Most customs authorities do not tax what you paid. They tax an assessed value, usually CIF — the cost of the vehicle plus insurance plus freight — determined from their own valuation database. If your invoice is below their reference value, theirs wins. This is the single biggest reason buyers feel ambushed: they budgeted duty on the purchase price and were charged on a higher assessed value.

On top of the base duty rate, countries commonly apply an excise or luxury charge based on engine capacity, a value added tax calculated on the duty-inclusive total, and smaller levies for infrastructure or environmental funds. Because VAT is applied after duty, the effective rate compounds:

Step	Basis	Example
Assessed CIF value	Vehicle + insurance + freight	$10,000
Import duty 25%	On CIF	$2,500
Excise 10%	On CIF + duty	$1,250
VAT 16%	On CIF + duty + excise	$2,200
Total payable		$5,950

The rates above are illustrative, not your country's. Ask your customs broker for the exact tariff line for a passenger vehicle of your engine size and age before committing.

2. The document set that must be perfect

Customs is a matching exercise. Every document must agree on the VIN, the consignee name and the value. One transposed digit stops the file.

Bill of lading — the title document for the shipment. Check the consignee name against your ID spelling exactly.
Commercial invoice — the sale value, currency and Incoterm.
Export certificate or deregistration document — proves the car was legally exported and is no longer registered at origin.
Inspection or roadworthiness certificate — required in a growing number of markets before the car may be registered.
Packing list — mandatory for container shipments, listing anything shipped with the vehicle.
Buyer identification and tax number — most authorities will not open a file without a local tax identification number.

Ask for draft copies while the car is still at the origin port. Corrections made before the bill of lading is issued are free; corrections afterwards cost a fee and several days.

3. Terminal and agent fees nobody quotes upfront

Beyond duty, the destination port has its own price list. Typical items include terminal handling, a delivery order fee charged by the shipping line's local office, a documentation fee, a customs processing charge, and the clearing agent's own commission. Together these often add several hundred dollars.

Then there is storage. Terminals grant a short free period — commonly three to seven days from discharge — after which storage accrues daily and rises steeply. Demurrage on a container works the same way and can outpace the storage charge. Both are entirely avoidable with preparation, and both are the fees we most often see buyers pay unnecessarily.

“Have the money and the agent ready before the ship docks. Everything expensive about customs happens while you are still organising.”

4. Age limits, steering side and inspection rules

Before you choose a car, confirm three national rules. First, the maximum vehicle age permitted for import — some countries refuse anything over five, eight or ten years, and a few ban used imports entirely. Second, the steering side: right-hand-drive vehicles are prohibited in many left-hand-drive markets and vice versa, and conversions are frequently rejected at inspection. Third, the emissions or roadworthiness standard the car must meet on arrival.

A handful of countries add a pre-shipment inspection requirement, meaning an approved agency must examine and certify the vehicle before it leaves the origin port. If your country requires it and the car ships without it, the vehicle can be refused entry outright. That is the most expensive mistake in this entire article, and it is completely preventable with one email.

5. A clearance plan that works

Six weeks before arrival: confirm duty rates and age rules with a local broker; get the figure in writing.
Four weeks before: appoint your clearing agent and send them the draft documents to review.
Two weeks before: arrange the funds for duty and fees in local currency. Exchange delays cause storage charges.
On arrival notice: collect the delivery order and submit the entry the same day.
At release: inspect the vehicle at the terminal, photograph it, and note any damage on the receipt before signing.

Key takeaways

Duty is charged on the customs assessed value, not necessarily your invoice.
VAT is applied after duty and excise, so the effective rate compounds.
Free storage time is short — appoint the agent before the ship docks.
Check age limits, steering side and pre-shipment inspection rules before you buy.

Customs FAQ

Can you clear the car for me?

We prepare and courier a complete document set and work with your appointed agent, but customs entry itself must be filed locally in your name.

What if customs values my car higher than I paid?

You can appeal with the commercial invoice and proof of payment. Success varies by country, so budget on the assessed value and treat any reduction as a bonus.

Get a landed-cost estimate before you commit

Tell us your country and the car you want, and we will send freight, insurance and an indicative duty breakdown.

Home › Journal › Prices

Prices

Japanese JDM Car Prices in 2026: Updated Monthly Export Price Guide

JM Pricing desk · Updated January 2026 · 11 min read

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Price comparison of Japanese used cars for export in 2026

Every range below is reviewed at the start of the month against auction results and live freight quotes.

Prices in the export market move every month. Auction volumes in Japan rise after the spring registration cycle, ocean freight rates swing with fuel and container availability, and currency moves can add or remove several hundred dollars from the same car in a single week. This page is our working price sheet: we refresh it at the start of every month so buyers can plan with numbers that are close to what they will actually be invoiced.

All figures below are FOB ranges in US dollars — the vehicle loaded onto the ship at the port of origin. Freight, marine insurance, destination handling and your own country's duty sit on top. As a rough planning figure, add $900 to $1,900 for ocean freight depending on lane and method, then apply your local duty rate to the landed value.

Last price review: January 2026. Ranges reflect clean, accident-free examples with verified mileage and an auction grade of 4 or better. Cars graded 3.5 or lower sit below these ranges; grade 5 and low-mileage cars sit above them.

On this page

Kei and city cars
Hatchbacks, sedans and family hybrids
SUVs, pickups and 4WD
Sports and collector JDM
Why prices move month to month

1. Kei and city cars

Kei cars remain the cheapest honest way into car ownership for import buyers. Supply is deep, parts are cheap and freight is low because four of them fit into a single 40ft container.

Model	Typical year	FOB range 2026
Daihatsu Mira e:S	2018–2020	$3,400 – $4,600
Suzuki Alto / Alto Lapin	2019–2021	$4,000 – $5,400
Suzuki Wagon R Hybrid	2019–2021	$4,900 – $6,300
Honda N-Box Custom	2020–2022	$6,600 – $8,400
Suzuki Hustler	2020–2022	$7,200 – $9,000

2. Hatchbacks, sedans and family hybrids

This is the volume segment: hybrids with taxi-grade durability, low fuel bills and parts on every continent. Prices here have been the most stable of any category over the last twelve months.

Model	Typical year	FOB range 2026
Toyota Aqua Hybrid	2019–2021	$8,400 – $10,200
Toyota Yaris Hybrid	2020–2022	$9,200 – $11,600
Nissan Note e-POWER	2020–2022	$9,800 – $12,000
Honda Fit e:HEV	2021–2022	$10,600 – $13,200
Toyota Corolla Altis Hybrid	2022–2023	$15,200 – $18,400
Honda Civic Sport Turbo	2021–2022	$18,400 – $21,500

3. SUVs, pickups and 4WD

Demand for body-on-frame Japanese 4WDs is structurally strong across Africa, Central Asia and the Middle East, and that keeps a floor under prices even when other segments soften.

Model	Typical year	FOB range 2026
Honda Vezel e:HEV	2021–2022	$16,200 – $19,000
Mazda CX-5 AWD	2022–2023	$22,800 – $26,500
Toyota Hilux Revo double cab	2021–2022	$25,500 – $29,800
Lexus RX 350	2022–2023	$37,000 – $42,500
Nissan Patrol V8	2020–2022	$39,500 – $46,000
Toyota Land Cruiser 300	2021–2023	$46,000 – $58,000

4. Sports and collector JDM

Collector JDM is the one category where waiting rarely saves money. Clean, unmodified cars with documented history are a shrinking pool, and the spread between an average example and an excellent one keeps widening.

Model	Typical year	FOB range 2026
Suzuki Swift Sport	2019–2021	$10,800 – $13,500
Toyota GR86 / Subaru BRZ	2022–2023	$25,000 – $31,000
Toyota Supra A90 3.0	2020–2022	$41,000 – $52,000
Toyota Supra A80 twin-turbo	1993–1998	$65,000 – $140,000+
Honda NSX NA1 / NA2	1991–2005	$62,000 – $120,000
Nissan GT-R R35	2017–2021	$68,000 – $95,000

5. Why prices move month to month

Four forces do most of the work. First, auction supply: Japan's registration and inspection cycle pushes more cars into the halls in spring and autumn, and prices soften slightly when volumes peak. Second, currency: a weaker yen makes Japanese stock cheaper for dollar buyers almost overnight. Third, freight: container rates and RoRo space on a given lane can move by hundreds of dollars per unit within a quarter. Fourth, regulation in destination markets — an age limit or emissions rule that changes in one country can redirect demand for an entire model class.

If you are buying rather than trading, the practical advice is simple: pick the model first, set a realistic landed budget, then let us tell you when a car that fits it comes through the hall. Chasing the bottom of a price cycle usually costs more in waiting than it saves in purchase price.

Frequently asked questions

Are these prices negotiable?

The range is the market, not a sticker. Within a range, condition, grade, mileage and how long the car has been in stock decide the final figure.

How often is this page updated?

At the start of every month, after we review the previous month's auction results and freight quotes.

Can I get a landed price for my country?

Yes — send us the model and your destination port and we will quote FOB, freight and an estimate of local duty in one document.

Want today's price on a specific model?

Send us the model and your destination port and we will come back with FOB, freight and duty in one document.

Home › Journal › Nissan GT-R

Buying guide

Nissan GT-R (R35) Buying Guide: What to Check Before You Import

JM Performance desk · Updated January 2026 · 12 min read

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Nissan GT-R R35 inspected in a workshop before export

A GT-R with complete service history is a bargain supercar; one without is an open-ended repair bill.

The R35 GT-R is the rare supercar that does not punish you for using it. It starts every morning, it tolerates bad roads, and it will still humiliate cars costing three times as much. But it is also a car where a $6,000 saving on the purchase price can turn into a $20,000 repair bill, so the inspection matters more than the badge.

What you will learn

Which model years to target
The mechanical checks that matter
Real ownership costs
Importing and shipping a GT-R

1. Which model years to target

Every R35 uses the hand-built VR38DETT twin-turbo V6, but the car changed constantly. Cars from 2008 to 2010 are the cheapest entry point and the most fragile: earlier gearbox software and weaker launch-control tolerance mean many were abused. From 2012 the transmission control, suspension and cooling were meaningfully improved. The 2017 facelift brought the far better interior, stronger body bracing and 565 hp — for most import buyers this is the sweet spot between price and peace of mind.

Japanese-market cars generally come with lower mileage and complete dealer stamps, which is exactly what you want on a car whose service history is the single biggest value driver.

2. The mechanical checks that matter

Start with the GR6 dual-clutch transmission. On a test drive it should shift crisply in R mode without shudder or clunk from a standing start. A rebuild is a five-figure job, so any hesitation is a walk-away unless the price reflects it. Second, listen for transfer case whine — a rising mechanical hum under load. Third, insist on evidence that the gearbox and differential fluids were changed on schedule; the GT-R is unforgiving about fluid intervals.

Then the abuse markers: launch-control counts stored in the ECU, aftermarket boost controllers, welded or aftermarket downpipes, and mismatched tyres. A tuned car is not automatically bad, but a tuned car with no dyno sheets and no receipts is a gamble. Check the bell housing and underbody for track-day scars, and confirm the brake discs are not cracked — a full OEM brake set is one of the most expensive consumables on the car.

3. Real ownership costs

Item	Interval	Typical cost
Major service (fluids, filters)	Yearly	$900 – $1,600
Gearbox fluid service	Every 2 years	$700 – $1,200
Tyres (set of four)	10,000–15,000 km	$1,600 – $2,400
Brake discs and pads	40,000 km hard use	$3,500 – $9,000

Budget realistically: a GT-R used a few thousand kilometres a year is affordable; a GT-R used hard is a race car with number plates and costs accordingly.

4. Importing and shipping a GT-R

We ship performance cars in a container, never RoRo. Ground clearance is low, the front lip is expensive, and a container lets us strap the car on its wheels and photograph every stage. Add a condition report with date-stamped photos before loading — it is your only leverage if anything is disputed on arrival.

Check your destination rules before you pay a deposit: some markets apply a higher duty band above a certain engine size or value, and a few require emissions or age certification for performance imports. We prepare the export certificate, translation, invoice and bill of lading as one package to keep clearance short.

Looking for a specific GT-R?

Tell us the year, colour and budget and we will watch the auctions and send you graded options with photos.

Home › Journal › Toyota Supra

Buying guide

Toyota Supra Buying Guide: A80 Legend vs A90 Daily

JM Performance desk · Updated January 2026 · 12 min read

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Toyota Supra on a lift during a pre-export inspection

The A80 is now an asset class; the A90 is a sports car you can use every day. Buy them differently.

Two very different cars share this name. The A80 (1993–2002) is a 1990s icon whose 2JZ-GTE engine turned it into a collector asset; the A90 (2019 onwards) is a modern BMW-engineered sports car you can genuinely use every day. Buying either one from abroad works, but the checks are almost completely different.

What you will learn

A80: what to inspect on a 1990s legend
A90: the modern daily-usable Supra
Reading a modified car honestly
Value, paperwork and shipping

1. A80: what to inspect on a 1990s legend

Rust is the first killer. Check the rear wheel arches, the battery tray, the boot floor under the carpet and the seams around the rear subframe mounts. A Japanese car from a snow prefecture can hide serious corrosion under fresh underseal, so any freshly sprayed underbody deserves suspicion, not admiration.

Mechanically the 2JZ is famously durable, but the ancillaries are thirty years old: sequential turbo control lines perish, the plastic vacuum fittings crack, and the original radiator and heater core are usually beyond their life. A car with a genuine stock twin-turbo setup, unmolested wiring and a documented timing-belt change is worth a large premium over a cheaper example — the premium is smaller than the cost of putting a bad one right.

Verify the auction sheet against the car: matching chassis number, mileage consistent with wear on the pedals and steering wheel, and no R-grade (repaired) history unless the price reflects it.

2. A90: the modern daily-usable Supra

The A90 shares its B58 straight-six and electronics with BMW, which is good news: parts are widely available and diagnosis is straightforward in almost any country. Focus on service history through the dealer network, evidence of the recall and software updates being applied, and the condition of the front tyres and lower bumper on cars that have seen track use.

The 2.0-litre four-cylinder version is meaningfully cheaper to buy, insure and run, and for city driving it is not the compromise enthusiasts claim. The 3.0 is the one that holds value.

3. Reading a modified car honestly

Modified Supras are the norm, not the exception. Look for coherence: a car with a matched turbo, fuel system, cooling and ECU tune from one reputable shop, with receipts, is a rational purchase. A car with a big turbo, stock fuelling and a generic map is a bomb with a timer. Ask for a dyno sheet, ask who did the work, and ask what the car has been used for. Reverting a heavily modified car to stock costs more than most buyers imagine.

4. Value, paperwork and shipping

Version	Typical FOB 2026	Notes
A80 naturally aspirated	$32,000 – $55,000	Undervalued, cheaper to run
A80 twin-turbo, manual	$90,000 – $140,000+	Collector market, rising
A90 2.0	$32,000 – $40,000	Best value modern Supra
A90 3.0	$41,000 – $52,000	Strong residuals

For anything over about $40,000 we recommend a container with a full pre-loading condition report and marine insurance covering the agreed value, not a standard flat rate. Twenty-five-year age rules matter for some destinations, so confirm the exact first-registration date on the export certificate before committing.

Want a Supra inspected before you commit?

We can send an independent inspection report with photos and paint readings before any bid is placed.

Home › Journal › Honda NSX

Buying guide

Honda NSX Buying Guide: The Everyday Supercar, Exported

JM Performance desk · Updated January 2026 · 11 min read

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Honda NSX prepared for container loading at the port

Timing belt history and honest bodywork decide the value of an NSX far more than mileage does.

The NSX was Honda's answer to a question nobody else had asked: what if a supercar started reliably, cooled properly in traffic and could be serviced by a competent technician? Three decades later that thinking is exactly what makes it a sensible car to import — provided you buy one that has been maintained rather than stored.

What you will learn

NA1 and NA2: the differences that matter
Inspection priorities
Aluminium bodywork and accident history
Running costs and shipping

1. NA1 and NA2: the differences that matter

Early NA1 cars (1991–1996) use the 3.0-litre C30A with pop-up headlights and, on manual cars, a five-speed gearbox. From 1997 the NA2 brought the 3.2-litre C32B and a six-speed manual with better ratios; the 2002 facelift replaced the pop-ups with fixed lights. Purists pay more for pop-up headlights; drivers usually prefer the six-speed NA2. Automatic cars are considerably cheaper and are a reasonable choice for a city car, but they lag manuals in value.

2. Inspection priorities

The timing belt and water pump service is the headline item: it is due roughly every seven years regardless of mileage, and on a mid-engined car it is labour-heavy. A car with a recent documented belt service is worth several thousand dollars more than one without.

On early five-speed manual cars, ask specifically about the snap-ring gearbox issue affecting a range of early serial numbers; a car with a replaced or verified gearbox removes a large risk. Check the clutch slave cylinder, the condition of the original ECU capacitors on very early cars, and whether the suspension bushes and dampers are original — thirty-year-old dampers are common and ruin the car's greatest asset, its ride and steering feel.

3. Aluminium bodywork and accident history

The NSX has an all-aluminium body, and that changes everything about accident repair. Poor repairs are visible in inconsistent panel gaps, mismatched paint texture under bright light, and rippling along the sills. Steel filler on an aluminium panel is a serious defect, not a cosmetic one. Insist on the auction sheet and a paint-depth reading on every panel before bidding; a car with a repaired front end is worth far less and is harder to sell later.

4. Running costs and shipping

Item	Interval	Typical cost
Timing belt and water pump	Every 7 years	$2,200 – $3,500
Annual service	Yearly	$600 – $1,100
Suspension refresh	Once per ownership	$3,000 – $5,500
Tyres (set)	2–3 years	$1,100 – $1,700

Ship in a container, on a low-angle ramp, with the front lip protected. Because most NSX cars now qualify as classics, several destinations apply reduced duty or a classic-vehicle registration route — worth checking before you pay, because the saving can be substantial.

Hunting a clean NSX?

We monitor Japanese auctions weekly and can shortlist unmodified cars with verified history.

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Comparison

GT-R vs Supra vs NSX: Which Japanese Icon Should You Import in 2026?

JM Export desk · Updated January 2026 · 10 min read

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Three Japanese performance cars compared for export buyers

Purchase price is the easy part — duty, parts and servicing decide which car you will still enjoy in year three.

Buyers ask us this every week: with a budget around the price of a good used supercar, which Japanese icon actually makes sense to import? The honest answer depends less on lap times than on what happens after the ship docks — parts, servicing, insurance and resale in your own market.

The comparison at a glance

	Nissan GT-R R35	Toyota Supra	Honda NSX
Typical FOB 2026	$68,000 – $95,000	$32,000 – $140,000	$62,000 – $120,000
Engine	3.8 twin-turbo V6	3.0 straight-six	3.0/3.2 V6
Drivetrain	AWD	RWD	RWD, mid-engine
Everyday usability	High	High (A90)	Medium
Servicing anywhere	Specialist needed	Easy (A90, BMW parts)	Specialist for major work
Yearly running budget	$3,500 – $8,000	$1,800 – $3,500	$2,500 – $4,500
Value trend	Stable to rising	A80 rising fast	Rising

Choose the GT-R if you want performance per dollar

Nothing else in this price band delivers the R35's all-weather pace, and AWD makes it usable on imperfect roads. The trade-off is consumables: tyres, brakes and gearbox services are supercar-priced. Buy a 2017 or later car with full history and the ownership experience is remarkably normal.

Choose the Supra if you want to actually drive it every week

The A90 is the easiest of the three to live with anywhere in the world: modern electronics, widely available parts and predictable service costs. The A80 is a different proposition — an appreciating asset that rewards patience and punishes a rushed purchase.

Choose the NSX if you want the drive and the story

No modern car feels like it. Visibility, steering feel and the noise behind your head are why owners keep them for decades. Accept that major work needs a specialist and that aluminium bodywork must be inspected properly, and it is the most emotionally rewarding of the three.

What shipping and duty do to the ranking

Freight is roughly the same for all three in a container: $1,200 to $1,900 depending on the lane. Duty is where the ranking can flip. Markets that band duty by engine size punish the 3.8-litre GT-R; markets that give classics a reduced rate favour the A80 and the NSX. Before you decide, get a landed-cost estimate for each car in your own country — we will prepare all three side by side on request.

See your landed cost for all three

Give us your destination port and we will price the same three cars side by side, freight and duty included.

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Honda NSX Buying Guide: The Everyday Supercar, Exported

GT-R vs Supra vs NSX: Which Japanese Icon Should You Import?

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